Thursday, May 16, 2013

Life in Pointe Noire


When we were visiting a new member, this family lived in the same parcel.  I asked the mother if I could take a picture because her little girl is working so hard washing dishes, lots of dishes.  It appears that because it gets dark shortly after 6:00 PM year round, by the time a family eats dinner, it is late and dark, so often the dishes wait until morning.  She was scrubbing them and rinsing them and they looked good!

We have passed this truck with chickens in the back on several different days, at one of the outdoor markets.  It is amazing, because they just stay in the truck!  People here eat a lot of eggs and a lot of chicken, which is mostly grilled and sold along the roads.


Here are some common foods we eat:  pineapple, in season (we have had 3 this week-yummmmm); Congo oranges (they are more like lemons than oranges); bananas; and plantains. I didn't have a papaya to include, but that is very plentiful and eaten as a staple.

Elder Nash was SO excited when we told him their apartment could take some of these plantains home.  The elders say they usually fry them, which is the way we have had them in restaurants here. This bunch, which has already had several removed by the other apartment, was given to us to share with them by a family in one of the branches.  They are HUGE!

Life in Pointe Noire

Most children know how to work hard.  These boys are breaking up chunks of cinder blocks and cement.  They will probably fill the wheel barrow and take their load some where to sell.  Usually this is used to fill in holes in the roads.  This week, there are huge piles of broken up cement on the road to our house, from a home that is being demolished.  People will come and gather the chunks up to use.  We have lots of them on our road, in the holes and dips.  First the chunks are big, then they gradually disintegrate until they are mostly dust, as vehicles drive over them.



On our way to District Meeting we saw this across the road we drive on.  We took a different way going home, because the traffic will have to cross over the median and go both directions on one side.  We weren't sure what type of a gathering this was going to be.  It was probably too big to be a funeral on the main street.=


A few people have started coming - it's about 9:45 AM.


This is a road we traveled down with some of our elders to visit a family out of town a little ways.  It soon developed into......
   ......this road, or non-road, if you want to be realistic.  We are so grateful for our truck and 4-wheel drive.  This is pretty mild - it gets really interesting when it rains, even in the city.  Actually, especially in the city, because that is where we are most of the time, and the people mostly live in cartiers which have dirt roads and lots and lots of huge puddles and ponds.

On our way to and from our visit above, we crossed over this water hose.  This area has no wells and no electricity.  The water here probably has to be paid for because it is trucked in to a tank.  Even large, fancy homes, which are built right next to the small humble ones, have to carry their water in.  The people who can afford it, have generators.  Most people can't afford them.  In the city, in many areas there is electricity - more common and available than water. 

Elders & African Suits



Elder Baker trying to cut Elder Wheatley's famous banana bread.... Really, it is quite delicious - he  makes  it several times a week and we take it as a gift when we go visit people.  Everyone so far, including the missionaries, love it (at least they say they do).  He uses less sugar, because most people here don't like things too sweet. 
 The missionaries LOVE peanut butter!  There is a sister in one of the branches who will get them this bucket of fresh PB for only 5,000cfa (about $10.00 USD).  That is a deal, because a 340g jar in the French store costs about the same.  Elder Lavering (leaning in) says he could eat the whole thing by himself!  Elder Stephens, Baker and Porter will insist on helping him.  Missionary moms - we do talk to them frequently about germs and cleanliness, but that doesn't stop them from 'sharing'!


Elder Porter thinks PB tastes great with milk, kind of like a milkshake.....

This is a men's taylor shop.  Since I took this picture, a glass window has been installed, but it didn't have one for a long time, although it has the usual bars over the door and window when it is closed.  Many of the missionaries talk about getting an African suit to take home - one with short sleeves and pockets on the front.  Men wear them with a casual shirt like a white T shirt.  One of the members told us one day during a visit, that you would never wear a dress shirt under such a suit, because if you did, it would look funny and people would say you were "from the village."


A little girl and her brother.





Another view.  The children take care of each other very well.


This woman is washing fish to sell.

This is right across from the nice, walled parcel where some of our missionaries live.

We Moved to a Bigger Home



This is our new home.  It is much more open and has room for everyone to sit at the dining table together and meet together more comfortably for Zone Conferences and other meetings.  It is actually less decorative - no columns or ultra fancy ceilings, which is OK.  We have two bedrooms and two bathrooms and a large kitchen/dining/living area.  There is also a detached laundry room and storage room and a bathroom for the guardians.


President and Sœur Jameson are visiting.  This is our front room/dining area/office area.  
  Because of the lighting, this picture doesn't show the best, but it is one we bought because it is so true to life of what the markets are like here - women with babies on their backs, and things on their heads, pregnant women, women selling deep fried donuts (beignets), manyoke, fish, etc., and some men in the mix also.  Yesterday we went into a covered market and saw thousands of people and their wares - all crowded together so you can hardly walk down the isles.  We bought egg plant, green peppers and apples there.
 This picture also represents to many real life scenarios.  In the background are Baobab trees, which are found outside of town and have much importance in legend and culture here.  When I bought the painting, it wasn't finished and the artist agreed to include the color blue so it would match our furniture.  I love all the babies on the mothers' backs.  Scenes of lots of people crowded together like this are a popular theme in Congolese paintings.

This is our kitchen, which is open off of the dining area.  It has a small fridge and freezer behind the cupboard doors on the right.  First time we have had drawers (3 of them) since coming to Congo! There is a stove top above the oven, but if we use it, we blow a fuse, so we brought in our gas stove and use those burners, but not that oven....our solution.  We also brought in our large fridge because we didn't want to store it outside and we need more space.  We keep water bottles in the 'white' fridge.

This is the front of our home.  There are two French doors that open into the living/dining area and two (one around the side) that open into our bedroom.  There are also 4 windows, which the landlord added bars to before we moved in.  We are a little leary of not having bars on the doors and have chosen to have guards 24/7.   It really isn't because we are afraid of safety, but of theft.  It is the culture here to have bars (or some type of grills) on windows and doors.


These are our guardians.  Patrice is on the left.  He has been with us almost a year.  He is a very good guardian - without us asking, he washes our car every day and keeps the outside of our house clean.  He tends our flowers and found and planted flowers in front of our outside wall.  He has come every day he is scheduled for all this time.  He belongs to another church and so we have always worked his schedule around his being able to attend.  When we moved, we were able to find another guardian to help on weekends, so he gets all of Sunday off.

Pascal is on the right.  He just started with us when we moved.  He is a recent convert to our church.  He seems to be good, too.  They both like to keep busy, by caring for the outside area and also reading and moving around.  Sometimes they sit outside the wall, as most other guardians do.  But we think it is good, at night, for them to be inside the wall, because then they know if someone were to try to come in from the side or back.



Monday, May 6, 2013
Dear family,
We are so excited about Katie/Sister Johnson, leaving for her first missionary assignment today!  She will be a great missionary in the Rochester, New York, Mission.  One of the elders who was in our city for several months has a friend who is a sister missionary there.  We have asked his mother to tell her about Katie, in case they have the opportunity to meet.  Katie wrote that she may be able to go to the Sacred Grove even more than once while she serves there.
We have experienced a good week, and a lot of interesting happenings.  On Monday we returned home to find that our power had been disconnected.  We were assured when we moved in that all the utilities were currently paid up.  We found out that the electric here was over $800 U.S. dollars in arrears.  It hadn’t been paid for fourteen months.  This is not unusual here and we know that people sometimes get in difficult situations back home and utility bills are usually the first things that go unpaid.   However, when our interpreter called the landlord, he said that if we wanted electricity we would have to pay the whole bill and then deduct less than half of it from our next rent payment amount.  This did not set well with Sister Wheatley, who said we shouldn’t have to pay any of it because it was all for months when we didn’t live here.  After a process that took most of the day, and cost about the equivalent of $400.00 US dollars, we were very blessed to have our power restored – at least temporarily!  Until this morning (Monday May 5) we hadn’t had any water come into our reservoir for about 15 days.  We were happy this morning to receive water again and know that it hasn’t been shut off.  It appears that we will just have to take what water the city gives us and take it when it is available.  There is a well/reservoir across our little road and we can pay to have water run through a hose from there to our cistern when we run out.  Water and reliable electricity are both precious and to be treasured here, as in many places around the globe.    Sister Wheatley says she will never take pure water for granted again – it is most precious above diamonds and rubies!
One day last week, we decided it was time for dinner out.  We had that tradition at home – after a long and busy week, Friday night was the night.  We had been shopping for groceries and decided to stop at a small bakery that is owned by a Portuguese man and his Italian wife, because they also own a couple of hotels and restaurants.  They have told us where the one that is open to the public is, but we were never really sure where they meant.  The bakery was closed (most businesses close for several hours in the afternoon), but not locked and we walked in and ‘talked’ to a man who was closing up.  We understood that the restaurant was about 3 streets over in a certain direction…..not a lot to go on, but we decided to try to find it.  We drove around for a while, and suddenly saw a new looking Italian restaurant, which we figured might be the one of a man we had met one day in town, who said he was from Italy, a member of our church, and was opening an Italian restaurant soon.  We went into the restaurant – and it was his!  He must have just opened, because he still had no menus, but the restaurant had quite a few people in it and he was happy to see us.  It is small, but very clean and nicely decorated.  There are about 8 or 9 tables, some which seat 2, some 4, and a couple that seat 6. We had a lovely  appetizer, delicious lasagna, cold bottled water, a crêpe with Nuttella for desert.  The reason he didn’t open his restaurant as quickly as he wanted to, was he was waiting for his shipment of cheeses, etc., from Italy.  The missionaries who work in the quartier where he lives, haven’t been able to meet with him because he has said he is too busy getting his restaurant ready.  He indicated he has been inactive for quite a while but wants to return.  He is friendly, but doesn’t speak a lot of English or French!  He said there is not work in Italy, so this is why he and his business partner decided to come to Congo.  We think there are quite a few Italians here.  The restaurant is across the street from the Italian Consulate.  There are Italian contractors here – one of whom we met about a year ago, when we traveled to a bridge about 20 miles out of town, for a P Day activity.  He was the managing contractor over the refurbishment of the bridge.   There are many French people, a lot of Chinese, and a variety of Italian, Canadian, South African, Portuguese, Philippine and a few British and Americans here.  They come here to work in shipping, oil, airlines, mining and we aren’t sure of what else. 
One of the Elders phoned us and requested that we pick up a baptismal candidate and his family.  This was the Elders idea.  The family comes to Church faithfully even though they live a long distance from the Church and they have little or no money.  The baptism would be in the church building not where they meet, but much further away.  Because they do make it to Church faithfully we agreed even though we are not supposed to, to give them a ride to the baptism.  The fear is making people dependent on the missionaries.  On Saturday we headed out to get them, with plenty of time to spare.  We wanted to visit another family on the way, and leave them a loaf of bread.  The Elders were worried that their family might leave before we arrived if we stop before going to get them, suggesting that once we secured the baptismal candidate we could stop to see the other family.  After picking our way through giant mud holes (we never know how deep they are we just look to see if other drivers made it through) and around many dirt roads and sandy areas, we arrived at the home - a simple one room, wooden house.  The son to be baptized had gone to the market and the parents were busy working around the yard and not prepared to leave.  We decided to visit the other family while we waited.  They agreed that when he returned, they would meet us on the road at 1:00 P.M.  We proceeded to visit the other family and returned to the designated pickup point a little before 1:00 P.M.   We sat in the vehicle in the hot sun until about 2:00 P.M.  It seems to Sister Wheatley, that no matter where we park, or what direction we face, the sun is always directly shining into the cab of the pickup….and opening all the windows and doors or trying to find shade is futile.  We finally decided to return to the baptismal candidate’s home, realizing that we may miss them altogether if they walk a different way.  We follow a water tanker trucks tracks and find a shorter way back (there are no water sources in the whole area and no electricity without a generator).  When we arrived they were just getting ready to come and find us.  For the fourth time it was through mud holes and over questionable roads, on our way to the Church.  We had the keys to the closet where the baptismal clothes are kept and  knew the other people wanting to be baptized would be waiting to get dressed.  We also had the keys from the bathrooms into the font.  We arrived just in time.  There was a nice service and despite the frustration we were happy to be a part of it.
Yesterday (Sunday) was a busy day.  Elder Wheatley had to oversee changes in an Elders’ presidency in one branch and some Priesthood Advancements in another.  Despite his objection, he ended up confirming one person a member of the Church and conferring the Melchizedek Priesthood on another.  We always stress that the members do this and not the missionaries, so they can experience the blessings of using their priesthood authority.
Today one of the elders called and said he wanted to come over to have Sister Wheatley look at his toe.  This is always a heart-stopper for her.  You never know what that means – it could be a severely infected ingrown toenail, a worm growing out of a toe, a cut, a rash………We have tried to nurse a really nasty ingrown toenail that eventually required surgery, stitches in an elbow due to a P Day basketball game, a variety of intestinal issues like worms, what some elders thought was malaria with fevers and chills (but what we don’t think was because it wasn’t severe enough), headaches, backaches, toothaches, allergies and colds and a worm growing out of a toe.  Our mission doctor is in Johannesburg, but usually answers his phone and if not, can be contacted by email, or through our mission president if there is an emergency.  We have two good clinics and one good hospital here, with French doctors.  The doctors trained in Congo have different approaches to medicine and unfortunately don’t have the opportunity for the quality of training that French doctors have.  We have taken elders to the doctor whenever needed, but try to contact our mission doctor first for his direction.  If there was an emergency, we would insist on going to one of the approved clinics or that one hospital that is approved.    After looking at this toe, which has red, swollen flesh and was indicating red spreading up the top of his foot, Sister Wheatley called Dr. Hoffman.  He was able to talk with us and indicate that we should start him on an antibiotic, he should cleanse and soak his foot and apply antibiotic cream, etc.  Dr. Hoffman is very careful with antibiotics, so we know he felt this was important in this case.  The elder said he had a small cut on his toe and that is how he felt the infection started.  It is so difficult to keep feet clean here because of the rain, puddles, dirt and sand everywhere, and all the walking they do.  We will check his foot in the morning and see how the treatment is progressing!  The Church places the health of missionaries as a very high priority, which is comforting and we feel so blessed to have medical help from the mission doctor and quality care available if needed.  It isn’t the same as at home, but as close as possible. 
Amil, a member from the Phillipines that we met down town one day,  attended Church yesterday.  He had seen the spire of our church house before, but was unaware that the Church was established here in Pointe Noire. Sister Wheatley invited him over for supper. He accepted the invitation.  We learned that both he and his wife served missions in the Philippines.  They now have three children.  He contracts with a U.S. shipping company called Tidewater.  He usually works for four months then goes home for a month.  He brought his scriptures, so after supper we asked if he would like to share a scripture with us.   He said he had been reading in Alma and was touched by Alma 5:46.  The whole chapter is very powerful.  I had marked in my scriptures that this verse is part of Alma’s testimony.  What is interesting is that Alma says in verse 46 that he had fasted and prayed many days to know that the things he spoke of were true.   This is the same Alma that had once gone about persecuting the Church.  Even though he was visited by an angel (Mosiah 27) and rendered helpless, he tells us in verse 46 of Alma 5 that he had fasted and prayed many days to understand the doctrines he was preaching to the people, which were mainly, being spiritually born of God through repentance and being stripped of pride, after which the Holy Ghost can act upon us.  Chapter 5 ends with a plea or invitation to come and be baptized.  A lot of lessons can be gleaned from this chapter and each reading will probably reveal something new.  Last evening the impression was that like Alma, a visitation by an angel or a few spiritual experiences won’t carry us through.   We must continue to fast and pray, and keep the commandments so we can say as Alma says in verse 48, “I know that Jesus Christ shall come, yea the Son, the only begotten of the Father full of grace, mercy and truth…..He cometh to take away the sins of the world, yea the sins of every man who steadfastly believeth on his name.”   We leave our testimony that what Alma testified would happen, did indeed happen.  And as Alma looked forward to the coming of Christ, we look forward to the day when he will come again.
We hope you are all happy and well.  Once again, we express our appreciation for your faith and prayers on our behalf.  We know that it is through your faith and prayers that we are protected.  In a very real sense your prayers for us and other missionaries, involve you in the work of seeking out those who will be touched by the gospel message.  Our prayers need to include more than just finding people to join God’s kingdom they need include providing members with the means to marry, and attend the temple to receive their endowments and be sealed together as families.
Love Elder and Sister Wheatley

 

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Life in Pointe Noire



This tent awning is the type that is put up when there  has been a death in a family.  This was barely erected as we waited so we could drive under it to get out of the narrow alley we were parked in while we visited the family, whose mother/grandmother had passed away.  These children live across the road.  During the funeral, which will be held at the home behind the parcel wall, the street will be filled with people and traffic will have to go another way.


Firewood is bundled like this to sell.  Many vendors buy it this way and burn it to cook chicken and other food on their grills.



This little 'mini boutique' is on one side of one of the elder's apartments.  The little girl is probably buying some candy, but bread, eggs, tomato sauce, oil, and sometimes alcohol among other things are sold at these little stores. 

This is on the outskirts of one of the outdoor markets.  The trucks are either loading up or unloading things like green oranges, charcoal, bananas and plantains, etc.  When they load up, people and animals like goats and chickens are added on top of all the other things and the trucks take them out of town to their villages.
 We have a stove that has gas burners and an electric oven.  The propane for the burners has to be purchased at boutiques like this one.  Lately, it has been very difficult to find propane, even though we are told their is a plant in Pointe Noire where it is manufactured/bottled.  We went to this place and within just a few minutes it was packed with people.  Elder Wheatley waited in line (lines don't mean anything - whoever can push to the front gets the product) for a while until someone told him they didn't have any in the size of our container.  When the propane arrives, the whole truck has to be unloaded before any will be sold.


Can you see Elder Wheatley's gray head in front of the man with the red shirt?
We had to add this photo, because this is on one of the busiest streets and it was a huge container that is being turned around slowly and pulled by this tractor.  We are sorry to tell our little grandson that it is not a John Deere tractor!

Pointe Noire Zone Missionaries April 2013

Because of computer issues, I have not posted pictures of our Zone for a while.  This is the current Zone.  I will try to insert pictures of the last Zone before transfers as soon as I can get those pictures to successfully upload.  This is:  Elders Baker, Christensen, Spens, LeFleur, Nash, Porter, Lavering and Stephens on April 7th, 2013.



Here are some of the elders listening to downloaded Conference talks.  We moved into a different house, where we have more room.  Elder Spens had a bottle of water on his head......